Route
- 29.12.2021 – Tbilisi – Vanadzor (163 km)
- 30.12.2021 – Vanadzor – Yerevan (110 km)
- 31.12.2021 – Walking around Yerevan
- 01.01.2022 – Yerevan – Sevan (65 km)
- 02.01.2022 – Sevan – Tbilisi (237 km)
I had been thinking for a long time about how to travel to Armenia together with Serj Tankian, who is one of my favorite musicians.
For New Year, I finally had some time. I quickly prepared my bike – visiting mechanics protects us from many unexpected and unpleasant surprises.
Preparing for a trip is my favorite ritual, and I dedicate a lot of time to it – planning the route, deciding where to stay, marking places to visit, taking safety measures, stocking up on medications, and so on.
I was impatiently waiting to test myself on a new road, and that day finally came. On December 29, early in the morning, I set off. I wanted to welcome the New Year already in Yerevan.
Georgians do not need a visa, only a vaccination certificate. However, because I had visited Azerbaijan in 2020, I was still worried about whether I would be allowed to cross the border.
Vanadzor
My worries turned out to be unnecessary. I crossed the Sadakhlo border checkpoint without any problem and headed toward Vanadzor, which is 163 km from Tbilisi. From the border, you follow a narrow road along a winding gorge until you reach Alaverdi, filled with unusual shapes and structures. The Sadakhlo checkpoint is located at 500 meters above sea level, while Vanadzor is at 1350 meters, meaning you keep climbing higher and higher.
Where I stayed, the hostel hosts, the people I spoke to on the way, and those from whom I bought food for dinner – everyone was incredibly kind to someone coming from Tbilisi.
Snowy Mountains and Downhill
The next day I left early, around 8 a.m. It was cold, still -4°C.
I knew there were many climbs ahead and, after Tsilkar, many descents. But I could not imagine what Armenia’s snow-covered mountains would look like at 2165 meters: endless open spaces, ice glittering in the sun…
After the moment you see in this frame, an endless descent began and my limbs started freezing without mercy. Fortunately, while I was shivering, an angel appeared in the form of a Yezidi girl who invited me inside, warmed me by the stove, and hosted me with hot tea and her stories. The warmth of that little house stayed with me all the way to Yerevan.
I usually carry boiled eggs as travel food, and for the first time I saw one freeze that day. It was filled with tiny crystals. I did not hesitate, took a bite, and it crunched like ice.
Yerevan
I walked more than 13 km in Yerevan. I saw bike-sharing bicycles; apparently, there are two types, and the green ones are especially popular.
As for bike lanes – there are none. However, getting around is not difficult because of the many traffic lights, wide streets, and pedestrian crossings.
I met many bicycle couriers with backpacks of different colors.
I also met cycling enthusiasts. I wished I knew Armenian so I could talk to them much more.
On the 31st in the evening, my tango friends from Yerevan invited me to a New Year gathering, and I experienced incredible hospitality.
Sevan
On January 1st, I set off late toward Sevan. It is a comfortable road for winter: climbs followed by descents, then climbs again. You ride fast, and at the same time, you warm up along the way.
It was snowing, but the sun was shining too. I felt calm until the icy Sevan wind burned my cheeks. It was not dark yet when my bike and I rolled into the frozen streets. However, the temperature changed very quickly once the sun disappeared. On Google Maps, many hotels appeared as open. I tried to book one while already freezing. One was closed, then another, then a third… Panic began to set in. I went into a pharmacy just to make the situation more bearable. Fortunately, Hotel “Sevano” welcomes guests even in winter. It was only 600 meters from my “shelter-pharmacy,” but by the time I reached it, I was completely frozen. The street was icy, snow almost knee-deep at the roadside. It was dark, and I could not even see the main entrance, so my bike and I climbed over the fence. In the video, you can hear my desperate voice.
The hosts of “Sevano,” Vano and his wife, shared stories about Tbilisi adventures while warmth gradually returned to my feet and fingers.
That night it was -8°C in Sevan, and the app showed a feels-like temperature of -12°C.
237 km in One Day
In the morning, I thought I would reach only Vanadzor because of the icy road. In Vanadzor, I decided I could make it to Alaverdi before dark. In Alaverdi, I felt the desire to reach the border. From Sadakhlo, I thought, there were only 70 km left to Tbilisi. That is how I rode 237 km on the fifth day.
I would name the Marneuli – Kvemo Teleti road as the most dangerous section. It is narrow, and drivers overtake each other despite the solid center line, often creating dangerous situations. I had to leave the road and get off my bike many times to avoid danger.
As for Armenia – I will definitely go again. And I recommend it to you as well.
This story comes to life even more in the videos I recorded along the way. Next time, I definitely need a front camera. I missed many amazing downhill shots:
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